Pastel harbours, sea-carved arches and white-sand coves between Rome and Naples: a guide to Ponza's slow summer days.
Ponza is the largest of the Pontine islands, lying off the coast between Rome and Naples. Ferries and hydrofoils run from Anzio, Formia and Terracina, and the arrival, into a harbour of pastel houses stacked up the hillside, sets the tone for everything that follows.
The island is best seen from the water. Rent a small boat for the day and you can circle the coast, stopping at sea stacks, natural arches and coves the colour of glass that are hard to reach any other way.
On the western side, Cala Feola is one of the island's few white-sand beaches, with natural rock pools nearby and the village of Le Forna above. Evenings belong to the port: an aperitivo on the waterfront, then dinner as the fishing boats come back in.
